Turtles should not be fed only pellets! A proper diet for RES and similar species should have the following proportions:

•Vegetables and water plants: 50%
•Commercial foods: 25%
•Live proteins: 25%

For veggies, don't feed iceberg lettuce as it has no nutrients. (Actually, why are you eating it? Go buy yourself some Romaine!) Also don't feed spinach or anything in the spinach family. The ratio of oxalic acid to calcium in these foods is too high for turtles. Good choices for food are dandelions (the ones in your yard are good if there's no pesticides), carrot tops, mustard greens, carrots, bell pepper, and squash. The best veggies are water plants like anacharis, water hyacinth, water lettuce, frogbit, hornwort, and duckweed. While expensive in a pet store, these are easy to grow in a separate tank or pond, and they are cheap if you buy in bulk online. For commercial food, look for something that has low protein and low fat. Dried shrimp are an absolute no-no! They are like candy to turtles. Tastes great, zero nutrients, and turtles who eat them may refuse other foods for weeks.

Baby turtles (under one year), will prefer protein to plant matter. Some turtles will continue to prefer live food and pellets even in adulthood. Don't give in! Think of your turtle like a 5 year old child. Sure, the kid WANTS to eat ice cream for dinner every night of the week, but you make him eat his salad anyway. Same deal with turtles. Turtles can go for two weeks without eating food, so don't give in to begging.

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There are many vitamin supplements for turtles on the market. Not only are these not necessary for a turtle eating a healthy diet, they can actually cause overdoses. There should also be no need for "medicated sulfa blocks" unless prescribed by a veterinarian.

Calcium is essential for turtles' growth. Consider how much calcium you need for your bones, then recall how many bones your turtle has! While it is natural in many vegetables, it is a good idea to provide a little extra dose once a week. Three common sources of calcium are listed below. Note: Be careful about the ratio of calcium to phosphorous. Phosphorus inhibits calcium from being useful. Avoid feeding your turtle spinach or anything in the brassica family.

Cuttlefish bone is a wonderful calcium source. In addition to being a calcium supplement, it keeps the turtle's beak trimmed, and many turtles enjoy playing with it. You can find cuttlebone in the bird section of pet stores. Sometimes it is sold in bulk bins cheaper than in the packages. Rinse the cuttlebone and remove any metal backing that was attached (these are to attach it to a bird cage). Just let it float in the turtle's tank. Rinse it once a week to prevent anything from growing on it. It will slowly dissolve, and your turtle will nibble on it. Some turtles will attempt to eat the entire thing in one meal. This can cause an overdose. If your turtle does this, break up the cuttlebone with a hammer. Put in one small piece every week to regulate their intake.

You can also purchase calcium powder and dust it on their food. These calcium dusts usually contain other nutrients as well, but the use of this is controversial due to the possible overdose of other nutrients. This does not work well for aquatic turtles since they must eat under water. It does work better for land turtles.

You can also make your own calcium blocks with plaster, or you can buy calcium blocks. Be aware that many store bought calcium blocks are "medicated", and the use of these items is debatable in healthy turtles.

Vitamin D3 is necessary for calcium absorption. Turtles naturally generate Vitamin D3 from exposure to UVB rays. The best source of UVB is direct from the sun. The secondary source is from a UVB light (must specifically say "UVB" on it). These lights do not last permanently, so be sure to replace it every 6 months or every year, depending on the light and the manufacturer's specifications. Just because the UVB bulb is producing light does not mean it's producing viable UVB! The bulb will continue to produce visible light long after the UVB coating has worn off. In summer, consider letting your turtle go outside in a properly set up outdoor habitat, such as a kiddie pool. This will allow him to get plenty of good UVB direct from the sun.

Both too little and too much Vitamin A can cause severe problems in turtles. The main symptom is swollen eyes for both illnesses. Be sure that your turtle gets Vitamin A by feeding foods like carrot, yam, and other colorful veggies. Beef liver is another good source for Vitamin A and other nutrients. Be warned, it is very stinky. We suggest feeding a carrot peel once a week.

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Turtles are like chickens; they lay eggs all the time, regardless of whether they are fertilized. Most turtles will lay once a year. However, females in captivity may lay multiple times a year.

When a female can not find an appropriate nesting spot, she may not lay her clutch. The eggs harden and calcify inside of her body. Once they are calcified, they can not pass through her cloaca. This is known as egg binding, and it is fatal.

There are multiple ways to take care of egg binding. If it is caught early, a hormone injection (given by the vet), will usually do the trick. Other options are the vet extracting the eggs, or surgery. As you can imagine, these last two are very difficult to do on a turtle. If your turtle is egg bound, see a qualified reptile vet. If you can't find one, a vet that specializes in birds may also be able to help since birds can also have this problem.

The nesting area should have lots of loose sand/soil so the turtle can dig and should closely resemble an area a turtle would seek out in the wild. Different species prefer different substrates, for example - a mixture of sand/soil for Red Eared Sliders, but a mixture of leafy litter and the addition of logs for Mud and Musk Turtles. Make sure any substrate is free of chemicals/pesticides ("organic" would be the best possible choice). The substrate should be deep enough for the female to dig down to (approximately as deep as her body length... for most turts that would be at least 10 inches deep). The egg laying area should be dark, quiet and secluded... and a heat emitter is recommended, since the female prefers to lay her eggs in a warm spot. The egg-laying area can be constructed out of different materials, like wood, or a big plastic tub/bin can be used (preferably not the see-through kind, since it will stress your turtle even more).

•Kicking at back legs (not to remove loose skin)
•Attempting to escape from the tank
•Digging
•Laying an egg in the water

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In the wild, red eared sliders and similar species will hibernate for 10-12 weeks. However, your own turtle may not live in the appropriate conditions for hibernation. It is ok for turtles to not hibernate though, and many turtle keepers do not hibernate their turtles. Regardless of whether you have the right setup for hibernation, never hibernate a turtle that is ill or under 4 inches.

Indoor turtles should not be hibernated. It is much too difficult to replicate the environment they need indoors, and hibernating without the right conditions can be fatal to a turtle. Even experienced owners do not hibernate indoor turtles. You may notice that your turtle slows down a little or eats a little less during the colder months. As long as the turtle is eating, everything is fine. Keep the temperatures at the normal level. You may need to increase the heat in order to maintain normal summer temperatures.

Outdoor turtles may be hibernated IF they have the appropriate nesting area and the right temperatures. If you can not provide these, it is best to remove the turtle from the outdoor pond and place them in an indoor tank for the winter.

Nesting Area

A turtle needs 18 inches of mud BELOW the frost line in order to hibernate. The pond needs to be fairly deep to accommodate this. For example, if your frost line is 36 inches down, you need to dig down 54 inches, install the pond liner, then add 18 inches of loose mud and leaves back into the pond.

Temperatures

The temperature must get cold and STAY cold in order for a turtle to hibernate. The area around 72 F is known as the "death zone". This is the temperature where a turtle will stop eating in preparation to hibernate, but will not yet go to sleep. To safely hibernate, the temperature should stay below 55 F.

Much difference of opinion exists concerning the necessity of hibernating pet turtles. While many captive turtles have lived for years in captivity without undergoing a period of winter dormancy, virtually all reptile breeders and serious hobbyists will provide for a period of cooling every year for those species which become dormant in the wild. This period of dormancy serves to normalize the reproductive cycles of these animals. Some species cannot be bred successfully without it.

Most native North American chelonians will begin to go off food in the fall of the year when the temperatures begin to drop into the fifties. Some animals which are kept indoors will also begin to slow down in October or November. Owners notice that their turtles begin to refuse food and will often try to bury themselves in the substrate of their container.

If a decision is made to hibernate your turtle, there are a few preparations that should be made. Approximately four to six weeks before hibernation is to begin, the animals should be fed plenty of high energy food, paying particular attention to supplying plenty of vitamins A and D3. For vegetarian species a diet with high carbohydrate content such as squash, mixed fruits (figs, melons, apples, peaches), sprouts, and soaked alfalfa pellets, and monkey biscuit is good. For aquatic species, whole fish, soaked dog food, soaked trout chow, newborn mice, and earthworms will suffice. Approximately seven to ten days before placing into hibernation food should be withheld in order to allow food present in the gastrointestinal tract to be digested. If the animals are allowed to cool immediately after eating, the ingested food will spoil in the digestive tract and may result in the death of the animal.

Animals which are to be hibernated should be examined carefully to make sure that no infectious diseases are present. Infections of the respiratory system are especially devastating. A turtle which enters hibernation with a mild respiratory infection will likely die from pneumonia during hibernation or shortly after emerging. Turtles with respiratory disease will frequently have swollen eyes and a discharge from the nostrils. If the turtle will extend its head, try to gently put pressure on the throat. If mucus comes from the nostrils, this is an indication of respiratory disease. Turtles which continually extend their head and open the mouth frequently are manifesting difficulty in breathing. Aquatic turtles which exhibit a tilting to one side while in the water are usually suffering from severe respiratory disease. Aquatic turtles which remain on their basking surface at night should be examined carefully, as this may be an indication of disease. Ideally, turtles destined for hibernation should be checked for internal parasitism and treated appropriately if found to be harboring parasites. Check the skin and shell carefully for evidence of hemorrhages. If found, these animals should be treated aggressively with antibiotics. If a turtle appears to be too light when picked up, compared with others of the same shell size, don't hibernate them. Box turtles are especially prone to abscesses involving the middle ear cavity. This will manifest as a swelling on the side of the head behind the eye. These abscesses should be emptied and packed with antibiotics before hibernating. An experienced reptile veterinarian can perform this procedure safely. In summary, a turtle which is to be hibernated should be in as close to optimum condition as possible before cooling.

Many different methods have been used successfully for overwintering. Turtles which have been living freely in a yard will usually bury themselves if a well drained area is provided. Try to provide a good deep pile of leaves or mulch over soft soil. The turtles will usually disappear for the winter and emerge on warm days, or in the spring. Aquatic turtles which are kept in an outdoor pond will usually overwinter in the pond with no problem if adequate depth is provided. I recommend at least 18 inches to keep the water temperature from fluctuating too much. Turtles can also be placed in an old Styrofoam cooler with several holes drilled in the side several inches from the top for ventilation. Place several inches of top soil mixed with sphagnum peat which has been slightly moistened in the bottom of the container, and cover this with several inches of leaves, hay, or sphagnum moss. Whatever container is used, it should be placed in a dark cool area away from any source of heat, such as radiators or water heaters. The ideal temperature should be approximately 50 F. Hibernating turtles which are native to temperate climates are able to withstand colder temperatures than this, but freezing should be avoided. One very effective method for hibernation that I use for larger numbers of animals of my own involves using a commercial grade refrigerator which is used by florists for storing flowers. I have placed a more sensitive thermostat on the unit and am able to slowly lower the temperature week by week, and can keep the temperature within a few degrees of what I desire by adjusting the thermostat. Although these coolers are fairly expensive to purchase new, good bargains can often be found in the used market, and should be considered by those having large numbers of animals to hibernate. I currently have over 25 reptiles in hibernation in mine.

Animals in hibernation should be checked periodically to make sure that no problems are developing. Animals which are active and moving about on the surface frequently are having problems, and should be slowly warmed back up and kept out of hibernation. I like to gently soak my animals every three or four weeks in order to prevent dehydration. Hibernating turtles will frequently have a mucus material in their eyes which will clear after soaking. This soaking doesn't need to be an extended period. Five minutes will do. I try to leave my own animals in hibernation for at least eight weeks, and frequently up to twelve weeks. Animals from the extreme southern United States will generally do well with five to six weeks of cooling. As the spring arrives I recommend bringing the animals out of hibernation and soaking them for at least thirty minutes. This will allow the animals to rehydrate themselves and void any waste. Usually within two weeks the animals will resume feeding and may begin to exhibit breeding behavior. The animals should be checked closely after emerging, and any signs of illness should be attended to promptly.

A common mistake made by many people during the winter months is to not provide for adequate cooling. Often reptiles are kept too cool to eat and digest, but too warm to become torpid. These animals will frequently be presented in the late winter or spring with full blown respiratory infections. Temperatures around 50 F. will generally allow the animals to cool effectively.

All of the above information pertains to turtles and tortoises from temperate climates. I do not recommend cooling of animals from a tropical area of the world.

GCTTS Note: Dr. White is one of the foremost reptile veterinarians in the greater Houston area and also has extensive personal experience with chelonians. He is at Briarcrest Veterinary Clinic, 1492 Wilcrest, Houston, TX 77042. Phone 713-789-8320.

Gulf Coast Turtle and Tortoise Society

The Gulf Coast Turtle and Tortoise Society is an all volunteer organization whose goals include:

•Provide a turtle and tortoise rescue, rehabilitation, and release operation in cooperation with other wildlife rescue organizations and turtle and tortoise societies.
•Educate ourselves and the public, through public presentations and meetings, about all aspects of turtle and tortoise care, natural history, and conservation.
•Disseminate the best available information regarding the proper captive husbandry of turtles and tortoises.
•Disseminate information concerning the plight of wild turtles and tortoises and effective efforts to help them.
•Provide an adoption service to our members for captive turtles and tortoises that need new homes.
•Encourage captive breeding programs for turtles and tortoises with a special emphasis on those species that are threatened by habitat destruction and share our experiences in this area.
•Work to make captive bred turtles and tortoises available as an alternative to the trade in wild caught turtles and tortoises.
•Serve as a cooperative to obtain discounts for our members on captive care products and supplies.

Copyright (c) 2004 Gulf Coast Turtle and Tortoise Society Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no Invariant Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover Texts. A copy of the license is included in the section entitled "GNU Free Documentation License".

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When in doubt, a vet visit never hurts anything but your wallet!

Whether the cost of your Red Ear Slider was small or large, you should try to provide the best care possible. When providing it with a suitable aquarium, cleanliness, healthy diet, and a warm stress free environment you can minimize a huge potential of health problems. Find a veterinarian who is qualified to offer care and treatment of a Red Ear Slider. The first thing you should do if your turtle seems sick is take it to a veterinarian!

General rules you should follow when sickness is suspected:

•Make a vet appointment immediately, turtles do not show symptoms until they are EXTREMELY ill.
•Raise temperatures about 2-4 degrees F.
•Keep the water very clean.
•Keep offering different food items to the turtle.
•Catch stools for a stool sample at the vet.
•If it is a shell problem, remove the turtle from the water.
•If the turtle has difficulty swimming, remove the turtle from the water or lower the water level.

•cloudy, closed, red or swollen eyes
•swollen cheeks
•open mouth breathing
•bubbly mucus around the nose or mouth
•runny stools
•loss of appetite
•listlessness and basking too much
•spots appearing on plastron (bottom shell), carapace (top shell) or body
•soft shell
•excessive shedding.
•lopsided swimming or floating
•noises while breathing
•difficulty diving to bottom

Newly acquired turtles are under a lot of stress and may be riddled with bacterial or parasitical infections that may be passed along to you or your kids. Always take a sick turtle to a reptile veterinarian, and have your children checked out by their physician if they begin to exhibit any signs (nausea, stomach aches, vomiting).

Respiratory infections are very deadly in turtles. Some of the symptoms are:

•runny nostrils
•gasping with the mouth open
•wheezing
•bubbling at the nose or mouth
•lopsided swimming
•inability to float or dive
•lethargic

Any of these problems, single or in combination, may represent a serious respiratory infection. Antibiotic treatment is necessary immediately.

Treatment

Call the vet right away. Raise the turtle's water temperatures to 80-82 degrees F. The vet will give antibiotic shots which will either be injected into food or into the turtle directly.

When you go to the vet, make sure to take ALL the turtles with you that live in the same tank, and get them all started on antibiotics. In many cases, the turtles that are not showing symptoms are already infected. Many turtles have been saved because even though the first turtle to show symptoms succumbed to the illness, the remaining turtles were already 2 days into antibiotics when their symptoms appeared.

Pyramiding is when a turtle's normally flat shell becomes bumpy, as though each scute was forming a little pyramid. Turtles with pyramiding can also have internal issues as well. This condition comes from a high protein diet.

Treatment

While it is not possible to reverse the existing damage, it can be stopped by changing to a lower protein diet. Over half of a turtle's diet should be plant matter.

Lack of Vitamin A can cause puffy eyes (swollen membranes). It's important to regularly feed vegetables high in Vitamin A, like carrots. Too much Vitamin A is toxic, so don't overdo it. Additionally, the symptoms for too much Vitamin A is also puffy eyes. If the eye problem is caused by lack or excess of Vitamin A, it will clear up very quickly with a change in diet.

Treatment

Change the diet to include veggies high in Vitamin A, like carrots.

Like other animals and people, turtles carry all sorts of bacteria on them. The same way that you should not let your dog lick your face, you should not kiss your turtle. Small children should not be allowed to touch the turtle. Always wash your hands with hot water and soap after handling turtles or any of their supplies. It is possible to treat turtles for salmonella, but it can come back very easily. Always assume that your turtle has it. Don't worry, he's fine.

Red Eared Sliders and other turtles can develop fuzzy gray and white patches that are fungal growths. One of the major causes of this is poor water quality and an improper basking area. Make sure you have a good full spectrum or UVB Light that gives off some good heat. Sliders need this for the prevention of fungal infections. Fungal infections can also develop if the water quality is poor. Make sure you have a really good filter!

Treatment

Make sure the turtle's basking area is positioned so they can get completely dry. A fungal infection will require medication from a veterinarian, and it will also require dry docking your turtle for a prescribed amount of time.

The most obvious symptom of an ear or cheek infection is the asymmetrical appearance of the head whereby one side will appear more swollen than the other. The causes of these infections can include unsanitary or inadequate husbandry, inadequate maintenance temperatures, superficial lacerations and inadequate diets.

Treatment

Treatment involves draining the infected area through a small incision. The abscess will be flushed clean. Do not attempt this procedure yourself, always see a veterinarian to lance abscesses! The turtle may need to be dry docked until the infection heals.

It's usually of bacterial origin and has haunted keepers for years. It usually starts off by an injury, bruised shell, burn or a crack in the shell surface. If your tank isn't clean and well maintained this disease will spread very rapidly. Clean water will also prevent this infection from happening.

Treatment

A complete sterilization of the aquarium and appropriate medication from your veterinarian is needed. This is one problem like I said that could spread very rapidly. Make sure to take the turtle to the vet. Also try a Betadine solution until the infection has healed.

If algae grow in your rocks and tank decorations, unless they disturb your sense of beauty, you can let them grow. An exception is the long, hairy kind which also makes the water slimy. Those, you should remove. Algae grow in healthy water with enough light. They are a sign that you are doing something right. Do not use chemicals to kill algae!!! If you don't like the algae, brush them off every time you change the water, change the water more often, use a stronger filter, and add a little salt to the water (see further up). In the wild, it is normal for turtles to grow algae on their shells. It helps them camouflage! In captivity, the algae should be removed every once in a while, since they can encourage growth of fungus in a confined environment.

Treatment

To remove the algae, hold your turtle under warm tap water and gently brush it with a soft vegetable brush.

This is very dangerous to turtle and should be monitored very carefully. Obesity in turtles can cause the functions of liver and other organs to become impaired.

Treatment

Correct the Sliders diet in both quality and quantity.

Vitamin A deficiency and overdose causes swollen eyelids, which can result in vision problems and bloody skin patches. Swollen and shut eyes used to be a common symptom in baby Red Eared Sliders fed an inadequate diet. Swollen and shut eyes can also be symptoms of a respiratory infection and may require antibiotic therapy.

Treatment

Check with your vet immediately to determine the cause of this symptom.

Gaping can be either totally harmless--turtles do yawn, or a sign of a serious respiratory problem, including pneumonia. You have to watch the turtle carefully and put all the different signs together. If the animal gapes and yawns frequently, and especially if there are any other symptoms, like swollen eyes, a runny nose, rasping while breathing, or loss of appetite, have a veterinarian evaluate the turtle immediately.

Treatment

Often a veterinarian will do an X-Ray to determine whether a gaping turtle has pneumonia and water in its lungs. If a water turtle swims lop-sided, mention it to your veterinarian. This is a pretty sure sign that the turtle does have water in its lungs.

Turtles shed occasionally the outermost layer of their scutes. They are thin, translucent scutes. If the whole scute is shed and the bone becomes visible, or if shedding is continuous, you may have a fungus problem and should have your turtle inspected by a veterinarian. As an immediate measure, remove the turtle from the water except for a 30 minute bath twice a day; keep it warm and dry; soak twice a day for 15 minutes in iodine solution or sponge off with Nolvosan.

A little peeling occasionally is fine. Turtles shed their skin like other reptiles, but more continuously. Mine usually shed more for a while, then less or not at all. As long as the shed skin is thin and translucent, and you don't see anything unusual on the skin, and the shedding is not excessive, don't worry. If the shedding is continuous, or the skin looks sore or red, or the shedding is very heavy, you may have to deal with a skin fungus. Have your turtle checked by a veterinarian. You may also soak the turtle in an iodine solution twice a day for 15 minutes and keep it warm and dry outside the water overnight for a while.

The silver spot is most likely air trapped under a scute that might shed soon. (Not the whole scute to the bone, just one layer, which turtles shed periodically.) Just keep an eye on it. Sometimes, the spot turns green from algae that grow on it. You may try, gently, to see whether the scute (just a transparent layer) is loose and comes off.

It's basically the Slider's intestine coming out of its anus. It usually goes back right in, but you have to be very careful that it does not bite it or other turtles do not bite it. If they do it can cause serious damage. If the prolapse does not go back in, take it to the vet and they can stitch it up so it doesn't happen again. A lot of turtles will at some point in time prolapse, (i.e. turn inside out and outside of their body) their cloaca or for males their penises. Occasional prolapses are common and more annoying than dangerous if dealt with properly. There is little pain involved for the turtle. It is not known for sure, what causes prolapses. Diet, stress, parasites and intestinal infections, general disease, obstructed intestinal tract, and weak cloacal muscles have all been suggested, but there are no final conclusions. And, too much sex...(no joke). So, there are no known preventive measures, either. If your turtle seems otherwise healthy, an occasional prolapse is nothing to worry about. If the prolapses happen frequently and cause too much distress to you and your turtle, you might consider asking a herp vet to apply a purse string suture. If you catch your turtle in the act, watch and keep dirt away form the exposed parts. If they don't go back in immediately, make sure, they stay moist (you may even want to put the animal in a pan with a little luke warm water) and massage the surrounding area gently and make the turtle move. For water turtles, keeping the parts moist is less of an issue than for land turtles, but putting the turtle into clean water is still recommended. With water turtles, other turtles might try to bite the prolapsed body part which can lead to heavy bleeding and ugly consequences. Land turtles may step on their intestine, or tear it with their hind feet when trying to remove the 'thing' extending from their body. The turtle is not aware that this is a body part. Observe the turtle, until the prolapse has gone back inside. Purse String Suture: The suture basically keeps the cloaca from opening too wide, and so the intestine should stay in. The turtle can still pass feces, of course. If the intestine does dry off, usually, the vet will put a suture around it and eventually remove the dead part completely. This is done under anesthesia and can be more or less complicated, depending on the size of the dead parts. This operation has a guarded prognosis.

It's important to determine HOW your turtle got injured. If they are with multiple turtles, it may be time to separate them. Aggressive turtles will maim and kill their tank mates.

Treatment

If the cut is minor, dry-dock the turtle and put on some antibiotic ointment until the wound is healed. If the wound is more major, seek veterinary care immediately. Separate the injured turtle PERMANENTLY from any aggressors.

In hatchling turtles, this used to be known as soft-shell disease. It was one of the more common causes of deaths during the days of the large scale sale of baby Red Eared Sliders in the 1960's. The causes of metabolic Bone disease are inadequate calcium and/or inadequate calcium/phosphorus ratio and/or a vitamin D3 deficiency. This disease used to be common at a time when worthless turtle diets such as dried flies were commercially marketed in pet stores. The earliest symptoms are the softening of the plastron, underside of the shell, and the rear marginals, back edge of the shell. When examining for metabolic bone disease, apply slight, gentle pressure to these areas. Applying too much force and pressure can injure the turtles. Be gentle! By feeding your turtles an adequate diet your turtles will not have metabolic bone disease. Symptoms in larger animals include soft shells, deformed shell growth, and the inability to support themselves on their hind legs. As long as your turtles still appear active and are feeding, this disease can easily be handled. If caught in the earliest stages and treated early on, no long term effects will be present. In severe cases, a veterinarian should be consulted to administer injectable calcium gluconate. In more severe cases, the effects of the disease will not reverse and skeletal deformities and abnormal shell growth will remain for the rest of the turtle's life.

Treatment

Providing an adequate diet and treatment by supplementing the diet with a calcium/phosphorus/vitamin D3 supplement such as Osteoforme will stop or end the progress of the disease.

Red Eared Sliders can harbor many parasites including roundworms, flukes, and protozoans. If your turtle is stoolless, not feeding well, has poor weight, runny and/or bloody stools, stools with large amounts of mucus, stools with worms present, then you should consult a veterinarian to perform a stool check for parasites. A qualified reptile veterinarian will be able to prescribe and perform the best course of treatment.

Treatment

See a Veterinarian!!

Is the turtle kept warm enough? If turtles get too cool, they will stop eating. Does the turtle like the food you offer? Try out different foods. Some turtles can be very finicky eaters, especially in the beginning. And they have definite likes and dislikes. Most turtles will eventually take small earthworms that are wiggling in front of their nose. Start feeding favorite foods, then slowly introduce other items. Is your turtle exposed to too much stress? This is often a cause in new animals. Stress can be caused by handling, traveling, and tank mates. New turtles will often not eat properly for several weeks. Be patient and keep trying. Is your turtle healthy? Not eating can be a symptom of other problems. If your turtle has been eating well and suddenly stops, a health problem is a likely reason. Take a fecal sample to your veterinarian. Fecal samples need to be no older than 4 hours, and you need to store them in water in the refrigerator. Don't panic! A turtle can go without food for weeks, even months, and when it feels well again, it will eat again. See a veterinarian, if you think you are doing everything right, and the animal does not eat for more than 2 weeks.

Some information courtesy of www.turtlecare.net

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First and foremost, the veterinarian is your best friend and advisor when it comes to sick turtles. While with experience, you will be able to diagnose and maybe even treat some minor problems, the veterinarian knows the big picture, and can perform necessary tests, prescribes medications. They can warn you of complications, and make sense of confusing symptoms.

The best way to keep your veterinarian bills manageable, is to strive for the best possible husbandry practices; and if your turtle does get sick, do seek advice and treatment as soon as possible. Not only will your turtle suffer less, if it gets treatment early, the treatment is likely to be shorter, simpler, and therefore less costly.

Since the animals are being kept as captives, away from their natural environment, we also become fully responsible for their well-being.

This is tricky. Not all vets specialize in reptiles. Even of the ones that do, some are not familiar with good husbandry practices. While they can diagnose the illness, they may not be able to help you fix the habitat to prevent future problems.

Take your turtle to the vet for the first time when healthy. This is also good to give your vet a baseline for your turtle. Ask lots of questions and listen carefully to their answers. Do they recommend a large aquarium, or do they believe that a 20 gallon tank is adequate? Do they go to conferences to learn more about turtles? Do they own any themselves?

Also ask on community forums. There may be another turtle owner in your town who's scoped out the vets already!

The prices for visits to the veterinarian vary greatly, and while a good veterinarian costs money, the best veterinarian is not always the most expensive one. In the USA, expect to pay around $50 for the visit; medications are extra. If you can't afford to pay for your turtle to see a veterinarian, but you would like to help your animal, here are a few suggestions:

•Some veterinarians will treat animals at a lower cost, if the owner clearly has the desire, but not have the means to help.
•Try to find someone in a herp society who has experience with the condition your turtle experiences. Maybe they can help you treat the turtle, or they can help you find affordable help.
•Use the net, books, and other reptile owners as a resource. The more you can find out about your turtle's problem before seeing the veterinarian, the shorter the visit, and the more likely you can get away with one visit and a follow-up phone call.
•Show willingness to administer treatments and medications yourself. Most veterinarians will be happy to show you how to give injections or apply medications. That way, your animal will not have to be boarded. •Follow all instructions to the dot. This will help your turtle get well faster, and your bills will be lower.
•Once you find a veterinarian you like, establish a good working relationship. See the same person for all problems. Once a veterinarian knows you and your animals, it is often possible to get help over the phone.
•Many veterinarians have payment plans to help distribute the cost of expensive treatments over several months.
•Take all your turtles that live in the same tank, even if only one is showing symptoms. Many diseases travel through water, so they may all need treatment eventually anyway. Some vets will only charge for one visit if they are all diagnosable together.

Every time you are worried. If I am worried, I go see a veterinarian for both my and the turtle's sake. If you are using home treatment, and the turtle is getting worse. I usually give anything a few days to a week to get better. If things stay the same, I go see a veterinarian after that time. If things get better, I don't see a veterinarian. If things get worse in spite of my attempts at treatment, I see a veterinarian immediately.

lf your turtle is sick or maybe sick, and you don't know what to do. As with people, it is much cheaper to treat the beginnings of a problem. The money you think you are saving by putting off a visit to the doctor, will be more than used later if you have an advanced disease to deal with.

Information courtesy of www.turtlecare.net

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Obviously, we humans don't know how to talk the turt lingo (don't laugh! Some turtles are known to make quite distinctive sounds), but there are terms and phrases you should learn to help you understand basic turtle anatomy.

the "scales" that comprise the turtle's shell... It is keratin based (similar to a human's fingernails) but DO have nerve endings. A turtle can feel when something touches its shell. The scutes are shed periodically and tend to come off in very thin sheets, much like if you chipped a fingernail. Your turt will be rather "itchy" during shedding and may scratch on anything handy or want to be GENTLY scratched with a very soft toothbrush.

The turtle's top shell (covering the back)... The carapace is made up of bony plates covered by scutes and is attached to the ribs and backbone of the turt. Remember, there's nerves running throughout that carapace! A turt feels anything that touches its shell.

The belly of the turtle... The plastron is also made up of bony plates covered by scutes. Some turts have a hinge in the plastron (an eastern box turtle, for instance) while others, such as a red eared slider) do not.

opening common to the digestive, urinary and reproductive tracts.

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